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Composition

Iris: the flower that smells of its root

The iris in perfume comes not from the petals but from the root, and that root spends years growing, then years lying in a shed, before it has any scent at all.

Composition

The note pyramid: don't take it at its word

A note pyramid will tell you how a fragrance shifts from morning to night, but it says nothing about what the perfume is made of or how it will wear on your skin. And the part that matters most is hiding exactly where you would never think to look.

Practice

EDT and EDP: more than a matter of concentration

The two versions of Philosykos share a name and a list of notes, yet they tell of different hours of the same summer, and the three letters on the bottle won't explain the difference.

Composition

How to read Mosaïque: plum, honey and cocoa

The ten notes of Mosaïque read like a menu for two, but they won't give away the formula, and the most interesting thing about them is the one that isn't on the list.

Practice

How to compare two versions on your own skin

A first impression of a perfume misleads you almost as much as a first date, so I don't compare two versions of a scent at the counter but over two quiet days.